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Hydrating Custard SPF 45

UV-1036

Lightweight and hydrating, this gel-lotion provides broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. It is quick absorbing for a non-greasy after-feel.

Ingredients

ItemTrade NameIngredient (INCI)(w/w)%
1Pemulen™ TR-2Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer0.80
2LexFeel® D4*Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (and) Isododecane3.00
3DI WaterDeionized Water61.40
4LexFeel® 7*Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanote3.00
5PARSOL® 340Octocrylene2.80
6OxybenzoneBenzophenone-36.00
7PARSOL® EHSEthylhexyl Salicylate5.00
8PARSOL® HMSHomosalate10.00
9PARSOL® 1789Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane3.00
10GlycerinGlycerin2.00
11LexFilm™ Sun*Polyester-7 (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate2.00
12Phenostat™*Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylpropanediol1.00

* Inolex Products

Processing Procedure

  1. Premix Items 1 and 2, then add to Item 3 (main batch) to build a homogeneous gel, and then heat to 80 °C.
  2. Combine Items 4 – 11 and heat to 80°C while mixing until clear.
  3. Add Item 4 – 11 to main batch with vigorous mixing until homogeneous gel cream forms (if not too thick, homogenize the batch).
  4. Add Item 12 while cooling to room temperature.
  5. Adjust pH to 4.50 to 5.00.

Physical Properties

pH @ 25 °C = 4.00 – 5.00

Viscosity @ 25 °C (Brookfield DV1MRV; Spindle T-C @ 10 rpm) = 45,000 – 60,000 cps

Stability

45 °C (12 weeks), 50 °C (12 weeks), F/T (3 cycles)

Testing

SPF: FDA 2011, in-vivo on 3 subjects, 80 min water resistance

Critical Wavelength: FDA method

Preservative Efficacy Testing: EP-A, EP-B, PCPC, USP

Ingredient Function

LexFeel 7:Light, dry, and spreadable sensory emollient. This ester is excellent for solubilizing UV filters and dispersing pigments. It imparts a non-greasy after-feel and reduces the tackiness of heavier emollients.

LexFeel® D4:This volatile sensory enhancer is a silicone-free emollient that mimics the properties of cyclomethicone.

LexFilm™ Sun:Provides both excellent waterproofing as well as UV filter solubilization.

Phenostat™: Preservation system for broad spectrum coverage even at neutral pH.

Natural Origin Content

ISO 16128, includes water: 64%